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- Open the plastic containers by removing the seal. After you open your Magic Sculp up,
you might be hit with a strong smell (hardener), but it will evaporate quickly.
- You will notice the different colour of both components. The hardener looks greenish slate
gray while the resin is a light gray.
Rainers recommendation: „Storage“
- Store unopened products in a cool dry area.
- After container has been opened it is recommended that it be tightly closed when not
in use to insure consistent performance.
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- Take out only that amount you will be able to use before it gets hard.
- Take out equal amounts of resin and hardener.
- Roll out into individual balls.
Rainers recommendation: „Caution“
- Wash hands after each mixing with soap and warm water.
- If sensitive skin use surgical gloves.
- Avoid clothing contamination.
- Do not swallow – If swallowed do not induce vomitting!
- Call physician!
- If contact with eyes occurs wash with water for 15 minutes.
- Seek immediate medical attention!
- Keep out of reach
of children!
Advice:
Taking out both components with one and the same tool remind of cleaning it while changing
(water and paper handkerchiefs will fit).
- Confronted with intensiv contamination I’ve made following experience:
Remove resin with Isopropanol or spirit. Should work as solvent best at last. Test before use
and stop smoking. Avoid candlelight sculpting – You wouldn’t get a romantic result.
Remove hardener by using warm water and soap (an old Scottish invention) only and try it on
with some kind of mechanical action called „to wash“.
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The reason for the balls is we want you to control equal sizes of both components.
We are measuring volume not weight.
Advice:
- They do not have to reach ISO-standard. A sure eye will do (and every modeler has one...).
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Next take the balls, roll two cylinder shapes with them and put them together. Start rolling them
together while moving your hands back and fourth. Your cylinder will lengthen because of this process.
Then just fold it in half and repeat this process a few times.
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You will notice the marbling – caused by the different colours of both parts – fading away.
Repeat this process until an uniform colour has reached.
Advice:
- In large lumps Magic Sculp becomes a bit sticky due to friction and temperature.
Sometimes rubbing off adhere to your flat of the hand (I don’t reflect on those small black crumbs).
Use talc on your hands, it will do no harm to Magic Sculp
- After mixing well roll a ball. Let it sit for a while to cool down. This lets it lose stickiness (time for
another „smoko“ or „cuppa“ but no „toll calls“) and remind to wash your hands.
- Drop the previous step if you are applicating Magic Sculp (e.g. on pewter). The sticky putty will
adhere more useful. Then proceed to previous step and pop the kettel on for a „cuppa“.
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Take the amount you need for your step and apply it as desired.
Rainers recommendation: „Surface prep.“
- All surfaces regardless of substrate material should be free from oil, grease, dirt, waxes,
old paint, rust, chemical contamination, and water.
- To insure a clean surface, handsand, wire brush, or sand blast.
- Remove all dust and let it dry before applying.
- Setting time 2-3h at roomtemperarure.
- Will set firmly overnight.
Advice:
- Using large lumps of Magic Sculp, fishing line makes a great cutting tool. Also it’s easier than
cleaning your knife (to potters this famous secret is well known).
- Clean carefully greasy resin and pewter surfaces, sand if necessary, especially if working
on small scales objects and using Magic Sculp in thin layers
- Shorten setting time by using heat. Working under sun- or halogenlight and normal bulbs
causes noticeable results. To cure, place your object on a heater or put it in a domestic oven.
Observe a maximum of 80°C. In any way, test before and pay attention to the durability of other
materials combined wih your model (perhaps you’ll get a tear in model and mood).
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Pliability changes over setting time. Only working with Magic Sculp will you learn what you can do
and can not do before it sets.
You can use Magic Sculp as a cement to glue already cured parts together. Also you can add to
already cured Magic Sculp.
Advice:
- Take the time you need. Sculpt drapery or roughly texture first and then smooth it.
Impress small lines or sharp cuts near the end of setting time.
- Add thin applications by sculpting seperatly and glueing with Magic Sculp after curing
or trim it roughly after applying while doing the fine work at the end off setting time
(depends on the scale you are working).
- Thin sheets and plates (e.g. shields, armour) can be rolled on talced aluminium foil using
a roll pin and two rulers or rods on sides as uniform distance sheets.
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You can smooth Magic Sculp with water.
Advice:
- High solubility caused by too much water doesn’t matter. Don’t panic, let it sit for a while.
- You can use Isopropanol as solvent instead of water. Works faster and more dissolving.
Magic Sculp becomes nearly liquid. Linen materials (e.g. ropes) can be soaked. That
flamin‘ thing with open fire should be noticed, too. Drop your „ciggie“ – but not on your
missus new carpet.
- You can add small cuts and engrave Magic Sculp in the last period of setting for example.
Sanding, sawing and drilling after material has set firmly overnight.
- There is less brittleness, Magic Sculp is nearly shockproof. It’s easy to engrave or carve.
Your
imagination is the only limit !
