Q:
Which
tempature does MS stand?
A:
Once the product is cured – set firmly overnight, air drys rock hard few days after– it can withstand up to 150° C. You are able to sculpt master pieces usable for vulcanized rubber molds.
Q:
What is the recommended shelf life of MS.
A:
This is the frequently
asked question. Usually, it should be consumed as soon as possible, cause
we like to sell it. The correct answer needs a different look. Indeed,
we can’t tell it. The manufacturer released a new improved formula
and proclaims: „Should last a life time“. We use a kit opened
first time 01/2002 and it works already. Due to that we distribute MS
in plastic container with close lid only. Having an originally sealed
kit there should be no problem to store it a couple of years. Please note
the storage instructions in our manual, even recommended for opened kits.
We’ve heared about crystallized MS components, but that dealed only
with the hardener until the new improved formula. It never showed up in
our daily work. The hardener could loose his pliability only after a couple
of month (if you pay attention to the storage advice) and appear „dry“
or stiff. No reason to dump it. Heat the hardener up to 40° C, it
will soften up – But pay attention to your thermic source.
All that time using MS I never was forced to litter any crumb, even after
long stops of inspiration.
Q:
Brand
new MS seems to be more sticky compared to kits longer opened. Does the
putty start to become old?
A:
Great subtile intuition, think about it. Indeed, it’s like wine. More older – more valuable. New kits of putty could be a bit sticky, especially the resin. In that condition it adheres very good, but works less to a smooth surface, notable on large scales. I’ve noticed that on my own projects. Air your kit about 24h (lock up your cats & kids), you’ll find less stickiness after that. I’m keeping always an „antique“ kit for use on large figures. Many sculptors in this line agree.
Q:
Will
MS adhere to plastic, e.g. polysterol or styrene?aftet MS auf Plastik,
z.B. Polysterol und Styrene?
A:
Yes, but you have to ensure a proper bonding, otherwise it will chip off. Sand the area or break the molecular level using a thin coat of plastic cement or PVC glue. Drill capture holes on large surfaces.
Q:
Is
MS an air dry product?
A:
No, it’s a chemical cure. It occurs even under water.
Q:
Working
with long stops between project steps, does it adhere?
A:
Sure, there’s no problem in applying MS to already cured surfaces. In some cases you should sand the surface, especially on a very smooth one, or you can drill some capture holes if missed to punch in when sculpting.
Q:
Is
MS suitable for outdoor use?
A:
Nobody will disagree in catching fresh air while living your hobby. Also MS is suitable for outdoor exposure. A paint gives protection against UV rays, because epoxy is a polymer resin. There will be no harm by average European temperatures. Once cured, it resists up to 150° C. Frost makes all materials brittle, so keep enough cross-section in your parts.
Q:
Can
I use MS to repair broken coldcast porcelain objects?
A:
Go on, you will love it. Smooth the crackings with a wet finger. You can use it even to hind crackings.
Q:
Using
MS first time. How to mix it in the right way? Is it recommended to take
equal amounts of each part?
A:
Have a look at our detailed mixing instruction. On principle measure by volume (equal size of balls), not by weight. You’ll get it’s best suppleness. Mix well until you see a uniform colour. Taking more hardener (greenish slate-grey component) results a shorter setting time, but once cured it has a higher brittleness. More resin (light grey component) extends setting time. There’s a danger of losing uniform curing (max 70% resin and 30% hardener).
Q:
Is
it possible to colour MS before mixing?
A:
You can use epoxy resin pigments (take powder – no paint or solutions). It works OK depending on the compatibility. You will have to experiment with ratios, but take less. I don’t have any formulas.
Q:
Can
I make simple molds using MS?
A:
You can make simple kind of molds or imprints if there are no cuttings avoiding a release from your master. Use talc or mold release spray as agent. For two-part molds use talc as release agent for MS. Notice the maximum temperature durability of MS while casting: 150° C
Q:
Does
MS adhere to a primed or painted plastic surface?
A:
No, you have to remove the paint. Roughen small areas with sand paper, drill capture holes or soften smooth plastic surfaces with PVC glue – Both, MS and PVC glue, are chemical setting instead of air drying products. The glue breaks the molecular lever, so MS will bond in it.
Q:
Is
MS reversible?
A:
You can dissolve MS in uncured state with warm water and soap, if need Isopropanol is working (you have to test it on surface). Once cured, the only way to remove is to chip away or a grinding motor tool.
Q:
Working
on a life size object, do I have to pay attention to mixing large amounts?
A:
It’s a chemical curing process that develops an exothermic reaction, it warms up. More volume of MS produces more „heat“. Talking about kilogramms means a shorten off setting time. Depending on your roomtempeature it will raise quickly. In any way, try to work in smaller amounts.
Q:
How
sticky is MS to my hands? Will it harm my skin? Is it easy to remove?
A:
Compared to other epoxy or two-way puttys, MS „sticks“ on your model only. It doesn’t adhere to finger lines. There is no need to scrub down your hands. Even after sculpting sessions it doesn’t harm my ladylike hands. If you have sensitive skin use surgical gloves. Otherwise use warm water and soap to wash your hands.
